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3 Days in Marrakech
From Marrakech, Morroco
3 Days in Marrakech
By Becca Hensly

A Window on Moroccan Culture

The first thing you’ll think when you roll into Marrakech is that you’ve walked onto a Hollywood movie set. So reminiscent are the ochre ramparts, souk marketplaces, labyrinthine passageways and Andalucíainspired arches that make up this magical city, you’ll think you’ve seen them before. And you have — in so many films. But this time the players are real. The snake charmers, henna artists, potion-makers, beggars and carpet salesmen are part of the fabric of this stunning, romantic city, founded more than 1,000 years ago and set against a backdrop of snowcapped peaks.

Day One
A.M. Check into your hotel. The lovely Palmeraie Golf Palace & Resort, located just 10 minutes from the city center, is a world away in terms of pace. Refresh in the gardens and five swimming pools, play a round on the Robert Trent Jones, Sr., golf course, or have a spa treatment using aromatic oils from herbs indigenous to the nearby Atlas Mountains. Or you may prefer the exclusive privacy of two boutique hotels — Les Jardins d’Inès and Le Pavillon du Golf. These luxurious venues will be your prelude to Moroccan culture and architecture.
P.M. Head to the heart of the old city, known as the medina, to experience Djemaa el-Fna, a town square as you’ve never seen it. A trip to this immense plaza overloads the senses. It’s an extravaganza of bustling buyers, hagglers, magicians, jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers, food sellers, musicians, tourists and pickpockets. Throughout, the aroma of grilled meat and piquant spices scents the air. Drums, flutes and guitars enhance the spectacle. Look for kebabs, meatballs, harira (a thick soup of meat, garbanzos, tomatoes and lentils) and honey cakes. Save enough room for lunch at Dar Moha, an upscale Moroccan riad that serves outstanding regional cuisine. Afterwards, walk to the ville nouvelle, or new city, for some balancing solace. Find it at Jardin Majorelle and Museum of Islamic Art; feast your eyes on Berber and Tuareg carpets, textiles and jewelry, as well as the stunning cobalt blue pottery from Fes. End your day with dinner at the Palmeraie’s acclaimed French restaurant, Leroy’s K’fé.

Day Two
A.M. Put on your walking shoes and explore the famous souks of Marrakech. Get lost in the maze of shops — which are named for what they sell, such as shoe souk or leather souk — that winds through narrow passageways north and east of Place Djemaa el-Fna. Historically, the traditional souks stretch from Souk Smarine in the south to Ben Youssef Mosque in the north. Essentially a flea market on steroids, the mind-boggling array of wares is intriguing, almost overwhelming. Expect to get lost — that’s part of the fun — though know that there’s always a way out. In this compact section of town, there is an excess of stalls and vendors selling carpets, lanterns, bits of fabric, wooden crafts, jewelry, belts, baskets, shoes, leather and metalwork, all arranged by item. Don’t be afraid to bargain — it’s required — and by the time you find your way out, you’ll be carrying armloads of purchases, all bartered for a good deal. Exhausted? Have sweet mint tea and lunch at Bar Arabe, a tearoom with a terrace that overlooks the medina.
P.M. This afternoon, visit the kasbah. Known as the Royal Quarter, the kasbah contains the ruins of Palais el-Badi and the tombs of the Saadian princes. To the east is the mellah, the ancient Jewish quarter, which was once the largest in Morocco. Formerly surrounded by walls and accessible through just two gates, the quarter has narrow buildings that are higher and more cramped than those in the rest of the city. The cemetery, awash with waves of white tombs, moves most visitors with its ponderous beauty. Next, wander through the Palais de la Bahia, an ornate palace still used by the royal family. Nearby, a quick look at the Museum of Moroccan Arts reveals the history behind some of the handiwork you purchased at the souks. Return to your hotel for a spa treatment and a drink at Nikki Beach Marrakech, the hotel’s popular bar. For dinner, try the Palmeraie’s Italian-influenced Signor Santi; Dar Ennassim Restaurant at Le Pavillon du Golf, managed by award-winning chef Fabrice Vulin; or the Mediterranean- Moroccan eatery at Les Jardins d’Inès.

Day Three
A.M. If the mountains beckon and you’re ready to get out of town, consider a day trip to the riveting Ourika Valley, just a 45-minute drive from the city. Hikers might want to hire a guide and spend the day on the trails of Jebel Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa. Not athletically inclined? Sign up for a cooking course at La Maison Arabe. Fulland half-day courses teach participants to make typical treats like lamb tagine.
P.M. Whatever you do, don’t leave the city without indulging in an authentic hammam adventure; try Hammam Menara or Bains de Marrakech for a bath, body scrub and massage.

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