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A day trip to St. Mortiz
A fairytale land of swans, towers, glistening lakes and mountains with peaks like chunks
of Toblerone bars, Switzerland captivates in any season. But for sporting enthusiasts
— especially the snow lovers — fall and winter may be the best time of all to visit.
Because the small country offers efficient public transportation, travelers can sample
different regions, even during a short stay. Spend two days in enchanting Lucerne,
an ancient city that seemingly floats atop the mirrored waters of its eponymous lake,
then ride the rails to ski the famous slopes of glamorous St. Moritz.
Day One
A.M. Arrive early and base yourself in the romantic mountain village of Vitznau,
located just a half hour from Lucerne, and just an hour from Zurich.
The Park Hotel Vitznau,
a frosty-white, turreted palace of a lodge, invites you into an historic lap
of luxury. Behind it looms Mount Rigi, one of Switzerland’s best-known peaks,
a ponderous mountain, loaded with hiking trails. Stretch your travel-weary legs
with a stroll around this quintessentially Swiss town, with chalet homes propped
on the mountain. In autumn, cows with bells and hikers with sticks are seen wandering
about; in winter, the village is a-throng with sweater-clad Nordic skiers,
their equipment slung across their shoulders. Inspired, head to the cogwheel train
station, situated in the heart of the village, and ride the famous train up Mount Rigi.
Just as Mark Twain did on his world tour, you can traverse a number of trails offering
vistas of France, Germany and 13 lakes in between — a sight considered one of the
finest in Switzerland. After a fondue lunch at the Hotel Kulm’s robust restaurant on
top, the ambitious can hike all the way down or choose to take the train to various
midway stops. In winter, some hiking trails remain open for snowshoers, cross-country
skiers, and winter wanderers, while downhill skiers can use the train to access a
variety of ski slopes and toboggan paths.
P.M. End the day with a massage at the
Park Hotel Vitznau’s superb spa, and imbibe a glass of champagne in the bar.
Day Two
A.M. From Vitznau, ride the steamboat to Lucerne to explore the city of bridges.
Lucerne is small enough to wander freely; be sure to see such things as the Chapel
Bridge and the centuries-old paintings that hang from its arched roof, and the
Mills Bridge, with its painted gables. Jean Nouvel’s dynamic concert hall on the shore
of the lake, Corn Market, also beckons. Stop near the iconic Lion Monument for lunch at
the Old Swiss House, a half-timbered, historic restaurant decorated in a seventeenthcentury
style with leaded and stained-glass windows with heraldic panes (circa 1575).
Best known for its Wiener schnitzel prepared tableside, Old Swiss House gets raves
for its freshwater fish dishes as well.
P.M. Fortified with this hearty repast, you can sing the praises of the Richard
Wagner Museum, ensconced in the composer’s former home, a modest villa in
the nearby suburb of Tirschen. Here, with views of the lake, Wagner composed several
works, including Die Meistersinger. Back in Lucerne, recuperate at Stadtkeller, an
atmospheric beer hall buried in the cellar of Lucerne’s town hall. For dinner, either
return to Park Hotel Vitznau’s
Panorama Restaurant or try Rotes Gatter, a continental
eatery ensconced in what was once the fourteenth-century town jail. If the
weather’s good enough, request a table on the terrace facing River Reuss.
Day Three
A.M. Pay a visit to the muse of Picasso. Angela Rosengart, a 70-something art
dealer and one of Picasso’s former models, organized, financed and presented the
Rosengart Collection as a gift to the city of Lucerne. Comprising more than 200 works
by classic modernist painters, including over 50 by Picasso, this intimate museum
is housed in a refurbished bank where Rosengart can often be found acting as
docent to visitors, her hair pulled tightly in a chignon and a single strand of pearls
hanging from her neck. Afterwards, take a five-minute walk to the Picasso Museum,
laid out in three stories of the Renaissancestyle Am-Rhyn-Haus. Here, find captivating
candid shots of Picasso at work by the inimitable David Douglas Duncan, of Life
magazine fame.
P.M. Take time to shop at Boucherer or Gubelin for wristwatches and to play the
music boxes at Hofstetter & Berney. Then grab a pastry at Confisierie H. & M.
Kurmann before boarding your train to St. Moritz. Four hours later, check into
the newly restored Carlton Hotel, built for Russian Tsar Nicolai II as a summer residence
in 1913.
Day Four — and Beyond
A.M. Regardless of your level of expertise, consider hiring a ski instructor to lead
you throughout the five ski complexes surrounding St. Moritz. The closest, Corviglia,
has broad runs for intermediate skiers, while Piz Nair thrills with a vertical drop of
almost 5,000 feet. Have lunch at the huts on the slopes. On sunny days, you can lounge
outdoors on wooden chairs bedecked with animal skin blankets.
P.M. Dress up for dinner and take the short walk — or horse-drawn carriage ride — to
Johri’s Talvo, nestled in the adjacent village of Champfer. Inside the three-century-old
Engadine house, a French-trained chef fuses regional recipes with upscale ingredients.
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Experience an exciting adventure skiing in New Zealand? Take pleasure in a relaxing weekend at a resort in Napa? Had a great architectural design tour? Felt like royalty staying at a classic palace?
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Please share your collage of daily memoirs throughout your stay. We'd love to hear about your personal Legendary Experience at one of our Preferred Boutique member hotels.
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